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Vinedos Hontza 'Vendedor de Humo' Method Ancestral Rosé 2022 (750ml)
Style: Pet Nat Sparkling Rosé
Producer: Vinedos Hontza
Grape: 100% Tempranillo
Where: Labraza, Rioja Alavesa
Country: Spain
Taste: Pink, light, little bubble but persistant, funny sparkling wine for happy moments.
Certified Organic, Practicing Biodynamic
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About the Wine: Direct press, made in the ancestral method - fermentation completes in the bottle. Unfined, unfiltered, zero SO2 added. ‘Vendedor de Humo’ translates more or less to ‘snake oil salesman:’ this is a Tempranillo, but also—not.
In 2015, the began the winery Hontza in Labraza on a hope and a prayer—commercial winemaking has never been practiced in this village, but viticulture in Rioja Alavesa in general is common, as part of traditional mixed agriculture along with grain cultivation and animal husbandry. This is a special zone for vineyards: it’s north of the Ebro River, struck through with steep gulleys and valleys carved by the tributaries of the area; the soils here are poor and calcareous, and stone walls and terraces for viticulture have been formed for a century and more. There’s also great biodiversity, with lots of surrounding forests and riverbanks intact; and Labraza’s situation is even higher-elevation than much of the lauded subregion Rioja Alta.
When drinking the flagship wine, the village-level wine just called ‘Hontza,’ it has notes of which one might think when thinking of Rioja: dark, nearly black fruit and herbs, depth of flavor—but it has none of the common industrial richness, over-oaked styling, and dry, hot notes of compote fruit. The 560-700m range of elevation, proximity to rivers and forests, and limestone-inflected soils are doing their work here. So is García and Bridoux’s insistence on not utilizing chemicals in the vineyards or during the winemaking process; the wine is dominated by freshness, purity, and clarity of fruit expression.





