The 2021 Clos-de-la-Roche Grand Cru contains 80% whole bunches. It has a beautifully delineated and focused bouquet with blackberry, briary, wet limestone and a hint of juniper. It seems to grow with several swirls of the glass. The palate is very well-balanced with fine tannins that frame the sinewy red fruit, laced with white pepper and orange rind. It fans out wonderfully on the finish whilst retaining the class you expect from such a noble climat. This is deeply impressive even without its challenging context.